Nghiên cứu kỹ thuật xếp ly

Các tác giả

  • Thi Ha Nguyen Nguyen Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam
  • Nguyễn Thị Luyên Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam
  • Minh Nguyet Nguyen Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam
  • Thi Truc Linh Tran Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam

Email tác giả liên hệ:

hanguyen@hcmute.edu.vn

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.54644/jte.72A.2022.1284

Từ khóa:

Kỹ thuật xếp ly, Ép nhiệt, nếp ly khuôn giấy, giấy xi măng

Tóm tắt

Hiện nay, kỹ thuật tạo nếp xếp ly được các nhà mốt nổi tiếng thế giới và Việt Nam ưa chuộng vì vẻ đẹp cũng như sự tinh tế mà kỹ thuật này mang lại. Trong bài báo này, nhóm nghiên cứu về kỹ thuật tạo xếp ly, thử nghiệm giấy, và một vài loại vải polyester có khả năng định hình nhiệt, để tạo nếp xếp ly bằng khuôn giấy theo phương pháp ép nhiệt thủ công. Từ kết quả thử nghiệm, nhóm nghiên cứu thiết lập một bảng thông số về khả năng định hình nếp gấp của các loại vải, loại giấy với điều kiện nhiệt độ và thời gian nhất định. Đồng thời, bộ khuôn rập thử nghiệm từ hai loại giấy có độ dai, độ dày khác nhau, có khả năng chịu nhiệt; bộ mẫu vải xếp ly cùng với bảng thông số trên sẽ là nguồn tài liệu tham khảo, là cơ sở để sinh viên chuyên ngành hoặc những người có quan tâm, nghiên cứu và thực hiện các bộ sưu tập hoặc đồ án thời trang liên quan đến kỹ thuật xếp ly, xếp nếp. Việc nghiên cứu đề tài không chỉ nhằm bổ sung kiến thức về phương pháp xử lý mới vào nội dung môn học xử lý chất liệu, mà các sản phẩm nghiên cứu của đề tài còn làm tăng khả năng tự học, nâng cao tính chủ động và rút ngắn thời gian tự nghiên cứu trong quá trình sáng tạo ra các mẫu thời trang mới dựa trên điều kiện hiện có tại nhà xưởng.

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Tiểu sử của Tác giả

Thi Ha Nguyen Nguyen, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam

Nguyen Thi Ha Nguyen was born in Binh Thuan, 25th March, 1983. This author graduated from Ho Chi Minh City University of Technical Education with a major Fashion Design, Vietnam, in 2005; and received the M.A degree in Theory of History and Fine Art from Ho Chi Minh Fine Art University, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, in 2012.

She is now a lecterurer at Fashion and Tourism, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education. She's interested in history of costumes and manipulating fabric. She had three scientific research achievements and one published scientific article. Firstly, she was the head of the scientific research project "Designing a set of teaching aids to guide the use of smocking technique", 2012. Secondly, She participated in two the scientific research projects "Recreating 1920s clothes of the 20th century" and "Recreating 1960s clothes of the 20th century" as a member, in 2013. Thirdly, Nguyen was the head of the scientific research project "Study on material handling methods by embroidery technique", in 2014. Finally, She participated in the scientific research project "Study on the elasticity of knitted fabrics by mechanical method", in 2015.

M.A Nguyen Thi Ha Nguyen, received the consolation prize, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the university, with a scientific research project at the university level about Smocking, 2012

Nguyễn Thị Luyên, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam

Nguyen Thi Luyen born at Hai Duong, 07th November 1980. She received the Master Degree in Garment Technology from Ha Noi University of Technology, Ha Noi, Viet Nam, in 2008. She is currently a lecturer of Fashion Design Department, Faculty of Fashion Design and Tourism, HCM University of Technology and Education.

M.s Nguyen Thi Luyen had three scientific research achievements and one published scientific article. Firstly, The applying the Smocking in design teaching and the project level was by HCMUTE University distinguished project (T2012) as a member in 2012. Secondly, Luyen was the Key Researcher for the research and make samples of Western Costume in 1960s in 2013 and thirdly researcher for improving the formula of n designing modern Vietnamese Aodai in 2015.  She participated in the scientific research project "Study on the elasticity of knitted fabrics by mechanical method", in 2015. Finally, the published scientific articles were Textbook - Vietnamese Costume, 2013, Viet Nam National University HCM City Publishing.

Minh Nguyet Nguyen, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam

Nguyen Minh Nguyet was born 09th April 2001, at Ho Chi Minh City. She is currently a fourth - year student at Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education. My major is fashion design. I am fascinated by the beauty of pleated. That's why I spent a lot of time participating in and supporting this project. In my opinion, pleated manipulation help many fashion design to create a new impressive clothes

Thi Truc Linh Tran, Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Vietnam

Tran Thi Truc Linh, born at 16th February, Dak Lak, Vietnam. She is a 4th year student at Ho Chi Minh University of Technical Education. Specialized Fashion Design, with experience in supporting collections for designers, teaching children's drawing classes and a number of school activities.

Tài liệu tham khảo

Duy Khanh (2020, June 3rd), "Lam Gia Khang's pleated costume", Star Online Newspaper, at 05:30pm on 30 June 2021, Retrieved from https://ngoisao.vnexpress.net/trang-phuc-xep-ly-cua-lam-gia-khang-4109593.html

Khuat Nang Vinh (2019, Octorber 28), "Le Thanh Hoa brings beauty of highland into the Another Day collection", Happa Bazaar, at 06:30am on 24 May 2021, retrieved from https://bazaarvietnam.vn/le-thanh-hoa-dua-net-dep-vung-cao-vao-bo-suu-tap-another-day/

PV (2018, September 5), " Young stylist Ha Thanh Huu Anh Zoner caught the eye of Italian Vogue with a fancy design", Culture - Entertainment online newspaper, at 06:30pm on 30 June 2021, retrieved from https://vtv.vn/van-hoa-giai-tri/stylist-tre-ha-thanh-huu-anh-zoner-lot-mat-xanh-vogue-y-voi-thiet-ke-la-mat-20180905145413174.htm

Floriane Schmitt (2020, July 7), "Fabric manipulation Guide: Pleating, at 3:30am on 30 June 2022, Retrieved from https://florianeschmitt-com.translate.goog/pleating/?_x_tr_sl=en&_x_tr_tl=vi&_x_tr_hl=vi&_x_tr_pto=sc.

M.C Tran Thanh Huong, "Costume design 5 curriculum" - Ho Chi Minh City University of Technology and Education, Fashion and Tourism Falcuty, 2007.

Colette Wolff, " The art of Manipulating fabric", October 1, 1996.

Ruth Singer, "Fabric Manipulation 150 Creative Sewing Techniques", 2013

Takizawa, Naoki (1993), "Method of pleating garments and pleated garments", European Patent Specification, Public number 0529765 A1, at 07:00am on 25 May 2021, retrieved from https://www.mysciencework.com/patent/download/method-pleating-garments-pleated-garments-EP0529765A1/EP0529765A1

Telva.com, "Eva Soto Conde Primavera-Verano 2015 - Foto 4, at 06:40pm on 30 June 2021, retrieved from https://pin.it/4adIcUS

StyleBistro.com, "J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Spring 2014", at 08:40pm on 30 June 2021, https://www.pinterest.com/pin/15833036163398666/?nic_v3=1a2ApWM1z

Fabric (2017, October 5), "How Pleated Fabric is Made and Common Types of Pleat", at at 06:30pm on 30 July 2021, retrieved from https://www.thefashionstudenthub.com/blog/the-secrets-to-pleating#:~:text=To%20pleat%20fabric%2C%20it%20is,shape%20and%20rolled%20up%20tight,

Nina Azzarello (2021, May 09), " Unfolding the art of pleating: history + techniques that have fascinated the world of fashion", at 04:28pm, on 24 May 2022, Retrieved from https://www.designboom.com/design/unfolding-art-pleating-history-techniques-fashion-05-09-2021/?fbclid=IwAR2-Wvz0USX7iT_UqlFXnW6o6r3UiU7laeVsJL4abKBHrzTANF7JYZMH1PI

Kim Dave (2020, August, 16), "This is How Pleated Fabrics are made", [video file], retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv79rcgZBOw

Lee Euna, Kim Jongjun (2014, July 30th), "A Study on Change of Pleats Shape and Fabric Propertie", Korea Science, ISSN 1229-3350 (Print), ISSN 2288-1867 (online), Volume 18 Issue3, Page.134-147, Retrieved from: https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.3.134 DOI: https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.3.134

Smithsonian, "Fashion - The Definitive History of Costume and Style", Dorling Kindersley Limited, New York, United States, 2012.

Paul Jackson, "Complete Pleats - Pleating techniques for Fashion Architecture and Design", Laurence King Publishing Ltd, United Kingdom, 2015.

Nguyen Tuan Anh, “Textile materials,” National University Press, 2013

Tải xuống

Đã Xuất bản

2022-10-28

Cách trích dẫn

[1]
T. H. N. Nguyen, T. L. Nguyen, M. N. Nguyen, và T. T. L. Tran, “Nghiên cứu kỹ thuật xếp ly”, JTE, vol 17, số p.h 5, tr 73–86, tháng 10 2022.

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